Posted in: Restoration Techniques

Austin Healey Steering Lever Removal

One of the difficult jobs when repairing or restoring the steering box or steering idler on an Austin Healey 100 – MkIII is the removal of the steering levers. These levers are fitted on to a tapered spline and without the correct tool can be very hard to release without damaging the steering box, steering box lid or shaft.

The Steering Lever Can Be Very Difficult To Remove

Using this simple step by step process should prepare you for rebuilding the steering box or steering idler without damage.

First remove the cotter (split) pin. Sometimes you need to turn the nut a little to allow the pin to be removed.

Remove The Cotter Pin

The BN1/2 nut is 1″ AF, as I recall the 6 cylinder cars use a larger nut. This can be very tight but it is usually not seized, just tight.

Loosen The Nut

Next remove the nut and the large washer that is under the nut.

Once the washer is removed reinstall the nut and turn it down until the top of the shaft is level with the bottom of the castellation slots in the nut.

Castellation Cuts Level With The Top Of The Shaft

This is the secret weapon!

These Pitman Arm Pullers are readily available at Harbor Freight,  Princess Auto and similar discount tool suppliers or on eBay for about $20.

With A Small Modification This Is THE Tool For The Job

The trick is to use a disc grinder to slightly enlarge and “round” the gap between the jaws so that the puller fits under the puller lugs on the steering lever.

The “Secret” Modification

Again … The 6 cylinder component is slightly larger and will require a little more grinding on the jaws of the puller. Remove just enough material to permit the puller to fit on snugly.

Put a little grease on the threads of the forcing screw as these tools are usually shipped “dry”.

The Modified Puller Ready For Use

Tightening the forcing screw will exert the necessary pressure to release the steering lever.  I take it in small increments and check that the castellated nut still turns freely on the shaft between tightenings.

I have had cases where the lever was forced so tightly on the taper that the end of the shaft started to crush down on the split pin holes before the lever pulled off.  If you find that the castellated nut is starting to bind on the threads before the lever is released this could be happening. Try pressing a short piece of tightly fitting steel rod through the split pin hole and start over again. The piece of rod will prevent the end of the shaft from collapsing down on the split pin hole although you may have to use a pin punch to remove the piece of rod once you are done and possibly have to dress up the threads a little.

 

 

Comments (21)

  1. Hi Fantastic photo’s also excellent advice to get into the steering box and sort out the oil seal.
    Can the peg for the worm gear be turned to take up some wear in the worm gear or is it fixed no adjustment
    Thanks again for the great article.
    Regards Brian Metcalfe

    1. Hi Brian,
      Currently I’m in New Zealand and I just cannot remember if the peg on the very early boxes can be rotated.
      All the later boxes have the peg mounted in bearings.
      Remind me around 6 April and I’ll take a look at the ones I have apart.

  2. I just removed the steering arm on the car with a Harbor Freight puller using a shorter bolt. Be sure to mark the spline and the arm before removal. This will help to replace the arm in the right position. Also the arm must be at ride height to fit the spline when reassembling. The old oil seal pops out with a screw driver after you remove to top of the steering box and lift the shaft out of the way. Thanks for info from Michael Salter.

  3. Thanks for the info. I got the oil seal out and replace while on the car. I’m having trouble with installing the idler arm with wheel alignment. I have the steering wheel at 1 1/2 turns. the left wheel seems to toe out. I’ve had the car since 1968. It’s a early 64 BJ8. This the first repair on the steering.

  4. Michael,

    I have a question the steering. We have BJ8 and there is a little play in the steering. I tried adjusting it at the top of the steering box but could notice a tight spot.
    In the Healey worship manual they talk about the shims at the bottom, these are available, will the shims take the play out.
    We live in Canada, about 7 years ago we toured the south of NZ and met several of the Healey owners, it was a great trip.
    Thanks,
    Haylett

    1. Hi Haylett,
      I live near Dwight, Ontario where are you in Canada?
      The shins in the end of the box adjust the end float of the steering wheel shaft. You need to eliminate any end float to get the minimum free play however you will never get a result as good as a modern rack and pinion system.

  5. Is it possible to do this with the steering column and idler arm still in the car? or does the whole idler arm and steering column need to be extracted from the care first

    1. Actually John I have never tried…
      Fitting the puller into position may be difficult but if you can get it properly installed I can see no reason why it would not work.
      If you cannot get the tool into position correctly quite a bit of work could be saved by removing the 3 mounting bolts, loosening the clamp at the top of the column and then rotating the column sufficiently to provide room.
      Let me know how it works out.

      Michael S

  6. Many thanks for the info re steering arm. I am still battling as Mr. Healey didn’t allow enough room for the puller. I have borrowed one so I can’t grind it!

  7. Well I used to do that but once in a while I would run into a cotter pin that was made of steel that was a little tougher than the nut and that method would effortlessly rip the threads out of the nut and ruin the ones on the shaft….so I stopped using it…:-)

  8. So, instead of removing the cotter pin, use a air impact gun to remove the nut and that will shear the cotter pin, leaving part of the cotter pin in the hole. 🙂

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